tesla Should I replace my battery or sell it for 16K
Hey I’m new here! Anyways I’ve had LRDM3 since September 2020, driven it extensively(up and down the east coast on many road-trips). As well as driving it for ride share gigs consistently. I charge at home most nights, but I do rely heavily on superchargers. Couple weeks ago I am notified to that my battery should be replaced(199Miles=81%). I owe $20K. I’m being offered $16K for the car as is. The battery replacement is $12K. I’m stuck, any suggestions? Interested in hearing varying opinions, any feedback helps! (I looked into rich rebuilds shop, and they don’t fix cells on Tesla batteries anymore)
If someone is offering you $16k for a car with a $12k repair... TAKE IT RIGHT NOW.
KBB.com says that your car, without a dying battery, i.e. in "good" condition will net you.... $16k private sale. Exactly what you're being offered.
So, is it a good idea to spend $12k to make a $16k car increase in value by $0?
No, now you're just out $12k, with a car only worth $16k anyway and with a whopping 150k miles on the clock (i.e. other stuff is gonna go wrong like the suspension on a 2.5 ton vehicle).
They are offering him 16k because he hasn’t told them about the 12k repair. See his reply on this elsewhere in the thread.
He is basically asking us if scamming the buyer is his best option.
He is opening himself open to a lawsuit if he does not disclose that to the buyer especially since Tesla has a record of the issue.
2.5t? where did you get that number from
150k miles is nothing extraordinary, and the suspension definitely doesn’t wear linearly with mileage.
KBB is a lie!
The absolute CHEAPEST Model 3 I can find listed anywhere is around $23,000.
A Dual Motor Long Range OP has with that mileage and a good battery is closer to $25-$28k private party.
It's 1.8T not 2.5
I mean the car is 4034 lbs that’s over 2 ton. Not 2.5 but not 1.8 either. We making shit up now?
Couple weeks ago I am notified to that my battery should be replaced(199Miles=81%)
How were you notified? 80% at 150k isn't a big deal, why are you trying to replace the battery?
I got a notification on the car, “charge limit and range reduced request service soon- OK to drive” So I scheduled one and was called by the Tesla service representative(never happened before) stating I needed to change the battery soon. Their reasoning was due to various cells in the battery being worn and near depletion. I looked at some people with the same error code on other forums and I read stories of them suddenly losing the ability to charge the car. I’m worried bruh
Yeah it will lose the ability to charge. Happened on my parents model Y where the cells got messed up and it wouldn't charge. I personally would just sell it for 16k rn if you can get 16k.
He isnt selling it for 16k though, he would have to give the buyer the car and 4k and have nothing to show for it, and would need a new car.
He should do a trade in and roll the $4k difference into the new car.
This is the most american thing I've read this week lmao.
"Just delay your loans bruh, lease a different brand new car even thought you literally net negative $4k bruh"
Lmao yeah let’s roll our negative equity into another Tesla! And just like that you are paying interest on all the money you saved on gas. This scenario is completely insane.
Right now with the $7500 credit and current prices OP would likely end up owing about $12k more than they currently do but have a new car.
It’s not completely insane. I’ve had a 100-mile-plus gas car suddenly go belly up with repairs exceeding the equity value. That’s a lot of miles, a lot of wear and tear.
Here is a real life example. 150k and Tesla is saying some cells are near depletion. U/HighEngineVibe
Plenty of M3 exist with over 150k miles without battery replacements.
Some might fail, like an Ice engine or transmission can fail early.
Try the electrified garage or the type. Probably just a few bad cells messing up a chunk of the battery. Or, yeah, new car if you can afford it. Will be shoveling money into suspension and regular “car stuff” as you approach 200K
Did Tesla offer the 16K as a trade in value? I would do that trade in a heart beat. Right now with the recent refresh, their newer models have better efficiency, range and updated interiors. Even if you spent 12K to replace the battery, the car is at 150k and will have more accumulating issues. The wear and tear of a car run that long has to be substantial on the motors.
After the second price drop in a year, take what you can get and run while you can, some dealerships won’t even buy or trade now.
Yeah, my 95k miles 2014 MS is doing about 85% (no error message yet). There's no reason to change the battery yet. It's like 12-15k to do and the only benefit I'd get right now is slightly more range and 2x the charge speed at a supercharger.
While that'd be nice, I don't need to spend that kind of money to save 4 hours a year (I only supercharge on road trips, and only road trip a couple of times a year).
A 700 mile drive round trip this last weekend took a total of 16 hours instead of 13.5 estimated for an ICE. I'm COOL with taking a 30-45 min break every 2 hours. Kept me fresh longer (though I was SERIOUSLY flagging that last 30 min on the way home).
Look for a third party ev repair shop if you want to keep the car. This is the route I’m going to take if my battery takes a poop
Are you me? 😂
Hopefully, you only ever go to 057tech. Otherwise most ev repair shops just swap out the bad modules with new ones that kind of look like they match... maybe.
And then you find out you are actually out of battery when the gauge says 30% left.
most ev repair shops just swap out the bad modules with new ones
SOME shops were doing this (Electrified Garage) but very few if any do it now. I've heard that Gruber still stands by this method but that's the only one left.
Most shops now replace the entire pack with a refurb.
057 Tech seems to be embroiled in some stuff right now which has caused them to pause their 2-year battery warranty program and they're not taking new jobs as of the last 30 days. Hopefully we see them come back strong, I know his services are top notch and highly recommended.
Yall isn't the warranty @ 120k? Not 150k?
100percent it’s why I posted
No other shop doing battery diagnosis and cell swap in your area ? Already saw some guys here that were quoted 12k by Tesla for the whole battery when it was a 300$ cell / connector fix.
I’d probably pay to replace the battery and keep driving it. If you sell it you are underwater and have no car.. can you afford to buy a new one at the current extremely good discounts and tax incentive levels? Definitely a buyers market RN if you decide to go that route instead.
Don’t want a to do this again ya know… I put 5k down and was paying $800 a month for the past 3 years, to throw it all away for a $4K loss and to start the cycle of the large car note again feels dreadful
Holy moly I could never fathom the idea of $800 a month for a vehicle, plus insurance a prop tax I’m sweating thinking about that
Haha most say that to me, I’m 23 had the car for 3 years and had the blessed opportunity of staying with my parents since the pandemic so it’s able to be done but you gotta be rich to live on your own and afford a note plus insurance that high
Glad you were able to enjoy it! Everything is so expensive now it’s a shame
It seems a little early for replacement considering the 1500 cycles I’ve read on a few occasions. They didn’t offer some kind of adjustment because of how early this is coming up?
The cheaper option seems to be a battery replacement but as you said there might be a few things to fix here and there as the car ages. Depending on your liquidity , soon might be a good time price-wise as prices will surely drop a bit more with highland coming. Otherwise, a new battery shouldn’t be too bad interest-wise as it’ll be relatively quickly paid.
As a dasher too, you can write this expense off and it will deduct your taxable income. I would change the battery if you can’t perform your job with it or just keep using it until it is dead. Maybe it is a good idea to set aside some funds starting now to reduce the blow of $12k or just use the funds to make down payments for your next Tesla. Keep paying off your car as quickly as possible so you won’t be on negative equity.
Typicly u want to just write off miles. So in that case no you can't write off the 12k and why would you when you can write off far more in miles.
With all that said, take a portion of income and save it for these types of expenses. I calculated replacing battery as part of my gas funds.
I do dd and ue. Lots of expenses come up randomly.
It really depends on how much miles he'll drive that year. Usually the miles deductible trumps any maintenance costs, but $12k capital and other expenses like insurance, tires, charging, depreciation might be beneficial for him. Please consult with your tax advisor OP.
If u read how the miles vs actual expenses works once you done it a while for 1 car under same business you can't keep switching. While 12k could be beneficial there isn't much of an expense every single year.
Just gotta read up the irs manual.
"Choosing the standard mileage rate. If you want to use the standard mileage rate for a car you own, you must choose to use it in the first year the car is available for use in your business. Then, in later years, you can choose to use either the standard mileage rate or actual expenses." Quoting from IRS website. I guess OP can decide to which deduction after the first year.
a battery alone doesnt turn this into a new car.
the suspension will need major work pretty soon as well as is usual for most Teslas.
a battery alone doesnt turn this into a new car.
the suspension will need major work pretty soon as well as is usual for most Teslas.
That’s my dilema doesn’t seem worth the future repairs. Feel like this will be a expensive start to a laundry list to come.I’ve only had to replace the HVAC, and control arm up to this point and they were both out of warranty at the time. $2K on that so far.
Considering this is a m3 without air suspension, new shocks would not be that much money to put on. The same springs should be fine.
Can any one suggest posts in suspension problems and how to fix them.
The problems are the usual stuff for heavy cars. Control arms and all kinds of bushings. The fix is to replace them.
Tesla's just lke most cars out there have rubber bushings on the suspension points that get weak, brittle, torn. Normal Wear and tear.
However, there are aftermarket solutions with spherical bearings that will usually outlast the life of the car. These mods are usually done by enthusiast to tighten the suspension providing better feel and control of the car. NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) is typically minimal.
Example Model 3/Y:Unplugged PerformanceMountain Pass Performance
Going to more likely need new struts, various bushing / suspension parts. Likely more will go wrong as well.
He does ride share consistently. I would think a lot of city driving as well. The Model 3 is not exactly a light car either.
He does ride share consistently. I would think a lot of city driving as well. The Model 3 is not exactly a light car either.
I wish Tesla offer to replace my battery. I have just little over one year left on my “8-years-unlimited-miles-warranty” battery and drive train. Mine is definitely below 80% now but it’s not below 70% which would trigger a free replacement for me
Time to start driving and Supercharging as much as possible 😅. 100% charge limit etc...
I have free unlimited supercharging bro. I’ve been supercharging forever. I’m at 120K miles and this damn battery is still kicking well
THIS, wish I would’ve abused the fuck out that battery, so many times it would’ve been convenient to charge it to 100% but strayed away to preserve the battery…
Have a chat with one (or both) of these people.
https://grubermotors.com/services/model-s-main-battery-pack-repair-pricing/
https://www.electrifiedgarage.com/
https://qccharge.com - rebuilds batteries.
Wow, that is kind of shitty.
Edit: I would probably go for the replacement. $12K for another 150k miles of battery seems reasonable to me.
Original comment:
Unless you were notified by Tesla that the battery is about to fail catastrophically then I’d keep on using it.
For me, my Model 3 would still be useful at even 50% degradation.
Show us this notification you received.
Edit: It was a recommendation from Tesla
He was contacted by phone call about the battery needing replaced.
What year is the car?
My opinion, and a lot of people will probably tell me I’m stupid. First of all. Shame on Tesla for not covering these shitty battery issues… second. Replace the battery. If you sell it for 16k you then have 16k and no car. If you replace the battery, you still have a Tesla with basically a brand new running time. What are you going to do with 16k? What car could you possibly get that would be as good as a Tesla with a new battery?
And here lies the biggest fears that people have about buying an ev. You barely had the car for 3 years and 150k miles isn't crazy but you already need a $12k battery replacement. I would shop around to see if I could get a better deal. You might find someone willing to buy it for even higher around $18k-$19k if you shop it around. Then you have the next hurdle of buying another car with these ridiculous interest rates, very tough position indeed.
I'll keep it 100 with you, I'd personally keep driving it as-is (locally) until the battery officially fails on me. You still have 80% of good functioning cells in the battery pack so I don't know why it should completely fail on you at this time.
I agree but I mentioned earlier I got two other cars, that are paid off. So I don’t find it too worth while risking having the battery being unable to charge. Have an appointment to sell it tm! Wish me luck
Considering the 1500 cycle I’ve seen quoted this seems early to replace the HV. What did Tesla have to say about the underlying reason you’re seeing closer to 500 cycles ?
If Tesla rep called you…I would play dumb and be friendly and inquisitive and ask them for more information so you can fully understand the issue at hand. See if they will tell you when it first start showing issues with the battery cells. If they can give you (in writing—text/email/message) that it started X miles or X date…maybe that’ll fall under warranty because it was “known” at that point. Exhaust all those options and ask if they can help you out on a goodwill basis. If they reached out to you, it sounds like it’s a known issue and possibly a larger issue at hand which is why they suggest (or strongly recommend) replacement. You didn’t know that, but they did. Which is why they called you.
I’ll give you the 20k for it.
Why replace the battery? Unless you are getting errors it’s working as intended.
Error BMS_a066, is what I’m getting I’ve been using it for the past couple thousand miles(within a month) and it’s been fine but I feel like the clock is ticking
Take it to 3rd party ev repair shop so they can repair what ever is wrong with it. You will save thousands of dollars, it might not cost more than few hundreds that way
Who's offering you 16k? I might do the same.
Yea who is giving you 16k
Some company online… yeah if anyone wants it message me
Yo, do not spend 12k to replace the battery. Keep driving it. Keep gigging. Make that money until you only have 10% capacity. Probably another decade. Milk it for all its worth. And keep your money.
What people aren't getting is that it could stop charging all together, just riding it to the 10%
The error indicated is not just reduced range it is a bms imbalance and at some point will stop charging as the voltage variance goes to far out of whack.
If you are driving rideshare I would replace the pack you should actually be able to use the repair expense as a deduction in taxes( I am not a tax pro tho consult with a pro)
If you want the bad cells replaced contact Electrified Garage they’re based out of Ocala Florida they have a YouTube channel
I would sell it man I am comparing the math to my previous car Mercedes c300. Bought for 51k. Used for 6 years and put 110k miles on it. Zero issues. I only got 11k for it and got a tesla model y. You tesla has more miles than my benz even thought less years, but it's getting 5k more than my ICE got. Just sell it and cut your losses rather than off market fixes and all. Take the L and keep moving. Sorry it happened to you, but luck of the draw is a real thing.
RR doesn’t fix cells on these batteries because that repair doesn’t last very long.
Notification
(I looked into rich rebuilds shop, and they don’t fix cells on Tesla batteries anymore)
Ohh gee i wonder why :P
16k for 81% battery and 150k miles? Easy decision. Sell.
Why is this even a question? Sell it brother. Get a newer one. The idea about Tesla or any modern tech is that it changes pretty often. You're better off with a newer car. Especially now that the prices are falling.
I assume you aren’t just looking at the 199 miles and assuming that’s your real degradation? You need to run the battery health check to see degradation.
How long would it take to pay off the 20k? Just keep driving it since you are upside down on the car. Interest rates right now suck. You do not want to be even more upside down on a new car with an even higher interest rate. Just keep driving until it dies.
I have same car I would fix it great car I’m my opinion
Always disappointing to see batteries fail before at least 200k. They need to least last as long as a Toyota engine. Am curious how many 3s are into the 200s with no failure.
Can’t you extend your warranty?
4k is nothing, roll that into your next vehicle if you have no other option but you’ve gotten good advice already.
So, it's like this...
4k to get rid of the car. 20k to keep driving it. 32k to fix and basically have a new gently used car. 44k to replace with similar brand new model. (After tax credit rebates and rolling over the 4k loss you'd take.)
(I don't know the condition of the car, but I'm hoping the other parts will last another 150k. You never know though.)
If you can charge it at the house and really love the car, I'd probably keep it and not replace the battery yet. Is it a pain right now only getting 200 miles? You've got other vehicles you could road trip it looks like you said. Start saving cash for the battery replacement whenever you feel it's really necessary.
I hear you. Just a few issues. The other cars top out at 15-22mpg. They staying local 😂. The next is that the 200 miles is ok but I drive for Uber. So I go trough it daily. If I were to ease off from that I could no longer justify $800 a month on the note plus another $350 in insurance. Seeing how many alternatives were presented. I’m leaning towards my gut, sell the car and buy an old used Prius
The whole reason I bought a tesla is so that I can get rid of a long-term car note. A 12k battery is far cheaper in the long run. And the battery technology gets better as we go.
Sure, other people have mentioned that other stuff will go wrong, but that's true of other cars as well.
I use tesla cars as a fleet for my courier business. Trust me, it's worth it to just swap the battery.
Honestly, if you're going to pay 12k, just run that battery until it's a major inconvenience. And save for the battery.
I'm confused, your battery capacity is 81% but you need to replace it?
I think they're valuing your car like it's an ICE car rather than as an electric car. An ICE car depreciates mostly because the drive train starts to wear out after 100k miles. But an EV doesn't have that same problem so replacing the battery will basically give you a brand new car.
There isn't much difference between a 2020 M3 and a 2023/24 M3, so assuming you even CAN sell the car for $16k, you're basically going to be spending $40k+ on what is essentially the same car.
On the other hand, you could spend $12k on replacing the battery and that would give you another 150k+ miles before you'd have to start worrying about replacing suspension parts.
Buy gap insurance, push it over a cliff, and with the proceeds… buy an electric bicycle. Keep it simple.
12k seems like a decent price for a new battery. What if you kept driving it at 81%?
How much is a new one?
Your decision is to forgo $16k sale value plus $12k new battery. So $28k vs cost of a new replacement. And you can finance a new car with a $12k down payment instead of spending it on a battery.
No he owes $20k, he is being offered $16k for the car As is.
He could fix it through Tesla for an additional $12k
Honestly maybe you should've gotten a cheaper ice car. You're underwater and in debt. You want a finance driven decision? Get rid of the car, pay off the 4k. Buy a cheap Toyota for 12k, and let it limp along for another 100k miles. That will cost you 16k total, same as replacing this battery. (if you replace the battery you're still underwater by 4k). You're driving 50k miles a year, a tesla is a horrible choice for that honestly. You should be driving something that can go for 300-400k like a Toyota or Honda.
If you want the tesla because you want the tesla, then this isn't a financial decision, it's an emotional one, and there isn't a good outcome here, it's all bad. The least bad decision is to have a third party shop fix it up whenever it strands you and you get it towed. Replacing the battery now is a terrible financial decision, avoid that at all costs.
I should have provided more context. I own-out right, a 2007 Volvo S60R and a 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser. However they aren’t suited to rack up crazy miles, after reading the majority of the comments I’m leaning towards my original thought of selling. Buying a used Prius for 4-6K
200 miles is totally usable. I don’t see how you’re stuck. Just keep driving and enjoying life. That being said $12k for a brand new battery is a pretty good deal. Basically make it like new again.
I don’t know if this particular situation is worth suggesting but it seems like you rack up a lot of miles between the gig work and the road trips.
If you think you are going to that trajectory, could you swing buying a 2nd and keep the first? My thinking is that you could use the lower range as a grocery getter and use the 2nd car for long range trips, etc.
I totally understand that might not be ideal but the truth is that you’re ultimately going to put a lot of miles on the next vehicle. Repairing the battery might be a possibility through a 3rd party but ultimately I would expect more of the cells to die in the future and a possibility of future repairs. If you had a second vehicle, you could use it as your primary if the current one has a major battery issue, you wouldn’t be in a rush to replace the battery. Also, the cost of a replacement might come down further in the future. I seem to remember it being higher than 12K.
I’d trade in for a Prius hybrid
Darn, the car is 150k and already needing a battery replacement is disappointing. I would try to sell it now for as much as you can so you can pay off what you owe.
Edit: misread and thought the car was only 3 yo.
It is, it is a 2020
The car costs over 50k? And spending 12k will give you an additional 150,00 miles?
Option a: replace battery for 12k. Plus 20k owed = 32k debt
Option b: sell car. 4k debt + new car 50k debt. = 54k debt
Im going with option b.
This is why you sell the Model 3 BEFORE it reaches 100k miles.
Was 100% the plan, just got lost in the sauce. Loved driving the car too much and didn’t want to give it a break
Batteries
Anybody know what a 100-MS/MX out of warranty replacement is for a battery at current prices?
20k
You can find a battery shop that will repair the defective cells.
If it was me I would take the 16k and buy a new one. Makes a lot more sense than being into a Model 3 with 150k miles $32k.
If it’s less than three years old, the warranty should cover that battery, no?
Mileage on the vehicle exceeds the battery’s warranty
Would you rather have $16,000 but no car, or pay $12,000 for a long range model 3 with a newly replaced battery?
The answer seems obvious to me!
He owes 20k tho
out of the 150k miles experience, if you still enjoy driving it then keep it with 12k battery replacement.
I would just keep going m. 200 miles still a good chunk.
On a side note, what was your charging and driving habit like? Curious for anecdotal evidence on degradation in your case.
I REALLY drove the car, and used a lot of its power while not cursing at a set speed. I charged often at superchargers as I drove for my wage. Also had to when I would take road-trips. I went on at least 30 ranging from 300ish miles to 2000 round trip. I didn’t top the car past 90% for it’s life span. I do regret driving it to just a couple miles left on a charge. I did this on more than one occasion due to stubbornness and desire to progress on road-trips. However aside from that I was cautious with the battery and followed the suggestions.
Holy smokes OP drove roughly 50,000 miles a year! That's basically driving from New York to Los Angeles 53-54 times! Cheers to that
Haha appreciate it man! Most of it is road trips too, love traveling in it
Thats the same cost of electric motorcycle lol
GRUBER MOTOR COMPANY they can help you.
What is the battery deregulation
BaaS would’ve saved your hide here.
I don't know if you would get the incentives, but you can potentially get a new one for less than $30,000. If you sell the current one for 16k you would have to pay anywhere from 12k to 14k for new car. Why would you pay $12,000 for just a new battery but everything else has 150k miles on it still?
How you own 20k on that😂
M3 is super cheap now with all of the incentives might as well just sell it and buy a new one with all the incentives.
Tesla has said many times that the cars are made for 1m miles..m just keep driving it!
Tesla lies OD
Good to know teslas are basically scrap metal after 2 years of ownership and 200k miles💀💀💀
What if you somehow got into an accident? :)
😂 thought about it
Sell it then use the 12k to get another Tesla with less mileage.
I guess it’s out of warranty? The battery warranty is a solid 8 years.
I think it's only good for around 125k miles or so.
Sell it, take the hit and lease a brand new tesla.. monthly payment will go down and you have peace of mind
He can’t lease on the mileage he drives
take the $16k. in another comment you mentioned you'd only be down $4k from your initial purchase.
-$4k >> -$12k and if you can wait a little bit for Highland, now you just got yourself a brand new refresh with your purchasing power
But they’re offering 16k without knowing about the battery. If they inspect it, the offer will be MUCH less.
I'm amazed they charging to replace entire thing. New ones like mine, they told me it's only 2.5k per pack that's bad. And I think they said theres like 4 or5 packs. I heard older cars had basically 1 pack so it had to be all replaced or go to a shop that can find the few bad cells and replace those manually.
Sell, buy a new one.
Uhh as someone who roadtrips up and down the East coast a lot and also relies on supercharging….. how likely is this? 50k miles, 13% degradation according to teslafi
Dude sell now, I was at similar at your point… I think if I can recall being at 280ish for 80% around then. My original plan was to sell but I let emotions get the best of me and the idea that the battery would last until 300K… please brother sell and buy again. I would compare it to an iPhone, the longer you hold the better true competitors will be as well as your own company releasing better versions. You may catch the update but it won’t run as well for you, etc. Keep on road-tripping tho!
Sell it, my model x 2017 doesn’t start. Nobody knows it and can’t fix it.
Wanna provide pics and mileage/ experience really curious as to what your situation is like
But 500k miles 🤣🤣🤣
Right bro 🤣 Elon’s hyperbolic statements are just that. Until he backs his claims with warranty, then it’s just all irrelevant hype. That doesn’t apply
Doesn’t tesla have 8 years battery warranty? Or is it because the car has over 190k miles?
Can't the suspect module be replaced?
These situations are why I would never buy any EV except for NIO, battery swappable cars are the only way to go.
Yeah fr wish I was in china bruh… wow never expected to write that sentence
This right here makes me never consider a tesla.
150k miles but you haven’t paid it off by now? Yikes.
He’s driving 50k Miles a year
Take 16 k and runnn
Take the $16k immediately. Disappointing the battery is failing…
Is the car still under any warranty? Didn’t Tesla suggest in public statements that the battery will not lose more than 7% per year?
Check your original power train warranty when you purchased the vehicle in 2020. Currently for 2023 models it’s “8 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, with minimum 70% retention of Battery capacity over the warranty period.”
I’ve seen publications by Tesla stating much lower expected loss. Did you ask Tesla support what percentage they have seen in loss over the original capacity and if they are willing to pro-rate a replacement?
At 199 mi at 81% we can infer a range of 246mi at 100%. The stated mileage for on a new M3LR is 322 miles, so that should work out to a degradation of 24% of range lost over 3 years. Did you go past 120,000 miles already?
If you’re under 120,000 miles and it’s under warranty, one could hypothetically run the car down to 1% battery a few times during ice cold mornings followed by 100% fast top-ups that then sit for a week in the driveway at 100% with sentry off and possibly get it to tick past 30% loss. Hypothetically…..
If you invest in the “scan my T3SLA” or similar App. with a proper CAN bus adapter, it should show the current KwH capacity and your total battery capacity in KwH when new, just in case the console screen is fudging the numbers a little and to confirm your real capacity loss.
Trade it in to Tesla, get a new one
Sell fo suo
Ok.... get rid of it. Get an ice vehicle and don't get a freaking ev. U got an education on the evs. The evs range that are claimed in ads are lies. Pretty sure where I read that tesla was sued because of this. The battery relies to much on climate. Do not get another ev.
Idk, can you buy another car for $12k? I’d rather fix than to buy a new car, but that’s just me
From $ stand point take the 16k and run. Just like any ICE, most of people get rid of their car for a reason…. Drive on your other spare vehicles until you ready for another new car.
My Honda at 150k is just broken in...
Sounds like you can't afford this car anymore so probably just sell.
Welcome to Reddit, I see this is your first post. Your story sounds incredible. I mean, a 20-year old buying a brand new Model 3 to use as a rideshare doing 137 miles every day for 3 years while also owning 2 other cars...
81% on 150k is quite high degradation, what was it at before you hit 120k as if indeed you are telling the truth you could have gone to Tesla under warranty less than a year ago and gotten it repaired or replaced for free
It never triggered the 70% threshold for my warranty to be used. Also thank you I appreciate it, lots smiles and memories in that car. It’s sold now tho. Onto other endeavors
Sell it and put the money towards a Model Y. The Y has the latest battery tech and has less failures. Plus the Y battery replacement is $5500 now. https://insurify.com/car-insurance/knowledge/tesla-battery-replacement-cost/
Hahaha buy a tesla they say. Cars worth 16 needs a 12k battery,...why don't we just all jump on board on this... oh wait my 2001 vw tdi has 350,000kms still fire up. This shows ev is not the way.
Guaranteed you spent well over that on maintenance costs for your shitty ICE vehicle. Nevermind the amount of pollution you've put into the planet as well.
Aren't you under warranty?
It is shown more than 150k miles so no more warranty.
Negative
Tesla offers warranty on the battery for 8 years or 150,000 miles. Since you are barely over 150k miles, they might honor it.
that is for the x and S, the his car gets 120k...https://www.tesla.com/support/vehicle-warranty
Thats why we sold our model 3 and got back to ICE vehicles for long trips. I didn't expect batteries to last only 4 years regardless of km count - the 'no manteinance" bullshit about EVs hit hard. We keep our 2018 model S only for short trips to avoid supercharging the cells.
Battery warranty is 8 years or 150k miles Using a supercharger does not void your warranty
Please provide a screenshot showing the actual error code and an email from tesla with the actual quote
Otherwise, your claim above is bullshit
120k if long range model3 not 150k miles
Lol ur energy is mad weird bro but peep the rest of the thread the screenshot is there. And if you also take a look you’ll see you are referring to the model S/Xs warranty, the model 3 is 120K either way I’m past on both I’m at 150K+